Expert Guide to Buying Your First Luxury Watch
Far from succumbing to passing fads, mechanical watches have, time and again, only managed to rekindle our appreciation for the artistry and passion of a meticulously crafted timepiece. The market for mechanical luxury watches both new and pre-owned, is quite vast today, and an increasing number of people seem to be discovering the bliss of collecting.
However, for newcomers who have only recently dipped their toes into the realm of luxury watchmaking, it can become an overwhelming experience. While there is enough information out there to fill the quest, knowing where to start is daunting enough.
Here are some key things you must consider at the beginning of your journey.
Budget
Let’s start with the basics—the budget. In horology, there is always an expensive and a more expensive option. You will always find a better dial, case, or bezel and ones with a gemstone setting as well. Two very similar-looking watches from two different brands will command different prices, and the reason will boil down to the name mentioned on the dial.
The best advice is to be honest with yourself and then decide on a budget you’re comfortable with. Also, be disciplined enough to stick to it. Many collectors fall prey to envy at some point and lose control over their emotions and spending limits. So, it is best to set a realistic budget and not go beyond that.
For starters, you can look between £3000 and £6000 for a stunning entry-level luxury watch. You can buy an Omega Seamaster Professional, Cartier Santos Dumont, or Tudor Black Bay GMT in this range.
Your Style
So, you’ve got the finance sorted. Now it’s time to narrow your selection to the type of watch you want. Style is one of the most important considerations when choosing your first luxury watch because you should admire the watch you’re wearing. A luxury watch is a statement on your wrist that will be with you for many years on so many occasions and events.
There are many different watch styles to choose from:
Pilot watches– This is a practical timepiece with a simplistic style and often appears larger than most timepieces. Pilot watches are meant to be highly legible and easy to operate. It is perfect for a casual business look.
Dress watches—These watches are designed to be worn with semi-formal, formal, and casual business attire. Simplicity and elegance best define this category. The watches have limited complications on display.
Divers watches—As the name suggests, divers watches are designed to be highly legible underwater and in dark environments. They are typically uncluttered, and most have a rotatable bezel for timing a dive. A diving timepiece should ideally have a water resistance of over 330ft.
Military watches—Designed for precise timekeeping under tough and challenging physical conditions, Military watches are robust and crafted with high-quality, impact-resistant materials. They have high luminosity and a more muted colour palette.
Racing watches– Two particular qualities define a racing watch: a tachymeter (tracks measure distance based on speed or travel time) and a chronograph (a stopwatch function). Aesthetically, racing watches appear a bit more flamboyant with a wide range of style and colour options.
Modern or Vintage?
This is an ongoing debate, and the side you pick yet again depends on your preference. But if you ask us, we think you should consider going modern for your very first luxury watch. The reason is quite simple—a vintage luxury watch takes more looking than a modern contemporary timepiece. You need a certain amount of experience to fully understand the various characteristics of vintage watches that make them special.
On the other hand, you can expect to live much more freely with a modern timepiece on your wrist. There is not much maintenance. Plus, you’ll get a lot more watch options for your money when buying a recent model. Please note that we’re talking about modern watches, not new ones (more on this later).
Consider the Size
Many first-time buyers don’t consider the watch’s size and mistakenly think the bigger the better. This results in more shaking heads in displeasure than envious glances. So, choose the right fit for your wrist to avoid such uncomfortable situations.
Those with smaller wrists should choose a watch with a 32mm-40mm case size, and those with larger wrists can go up to 46mm. Lug-to-lug measurement also plays an important role in affecting the size. As a thumb rule, the lugs shouldn’t stick out beyond your wrist. So, don’t rush. Do your research and try out the watch in person before buying it.
Type of Metal
While this is part of the style section, we feel it deserves a separate mention in this list. The type of metal or material you choose makes a big statement. A stainless steel model says something, and the same model in solid yellow gold says something completely different. Similarly, white gold, rose gold, and platinum all have their own set of qualities and the perceptions others have towards them.
From the price point, a widespread belief is that a gold watch would cost more than a steel one. But that is not always true. Many stainless steel models from Rolex sell for a higher value than their gold equivalent. For instance, the value of steel Rolex Daytona watches skyrockets in the pre-owned market, and the value of the Rolesor models (steel and gold combined) is comparatively lower. Exclusivity plays a key role here in deciding the cost of luxury watches.
Take the time to explore different metals, styles and complications to find a watch that truly resonates with you. It is best to seek advice or ask professionals before deciding.
What is your Purpose?
Some people end up buying a watch that is overly complicated because they are unaware of the purpose of their watch. Different luxury watches offer different functionalities and are often built with a specific purpose. Want to buy a watch with diving qualities? Check out the Rolex Submariner or the Tudor Pelagos 39. If you want a highly complicated timepiece, the Vacheron Constantin 57260, with 57 complications, is the most complicated timepiece in the world. It doesn’t necessarily mean you have to buy a luxury watch this complicated the first time.
You can look for the Cartier Santos Dumont for prestige, heritage, accuracy and timelessness. Going nuts over chronographs? The Omega Seamaster has a rich aviation history. Models like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon will add a vow factor to your wrist with various gemstone-studded models available. All this aside, if your biggest priority is to buy a watch that will appreciate over time, there are various luxury watches to meet your investment needs as well.
Simply put, it’s important for you to decide on the purpose of your watch and whatever you’re looking for. Choose a watch brand with shared values.
New or Pre-owned?
This is a question that will decide a lot of things. Now that you know the model you wish to purchase, do you want it new or pre-owned? Generally, pre-owned luxury watches make better investment pieces than brand-new ones because they depreciate less. For example, pre-owned Rolex watches make excellent investments and are highly coveted by buyers.
On the other hand, a new watch can lose as much as 50% of its value the moment you walk away from the store. On the other hand, you can purchase a coveted watch model for a discounted price on the secondary market.
However, for beginners, it is advisable to buy new watches as they don’t require much thought and come with a manufacturer’s warranty. Whether you buy a pre-owned luxury watch or a brand-new piece, there are certain rules to follow. Always buy a watch in a full set, including its box and papers, whenever possible. If you ever decide to sell your watch later, a watch in full set will always incur a higher resale value.
First Luxury Watch Recommendations
Now comes the main part – choosing your first luxury watch.
Buying your first luxury watch is an important milestone, and the right timepiece will serve as your personal style statement as well as a lasting investment. Hence, we have listed the top watch collections from the most popular luxury watch brands to simplify your search.
The watches listed below stand out for their perfect blend of design, craftsmanship, prestige, innovation and accuracy.
Whether you prefer a rugged timepiece or an iconic design, the watches here represent the pinnacle of luxury and are ideal for your first luxury watch purchase.
- ROLEX – Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is a legendary watch in the world of horology. Initially designed as a professional diver’s watch, it has transcended its purpose-built roots to become a symbol of luxury. The watches have a remarkably consistent design, adding to their timeless appeal. They also offer a staggering water resistance of up to 300 metres, underscoring their versatility. The Rolex Submariner’s sturdy construction and versatile aesthetics make it suitable for almost any occasion, from formal events to casual outings, making it an excellent choice for your first luxury watch.
Our Suggestion: Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 with a steel body, black dial and a black bezel.
- OMEGA – Seamaster
Seamaster is one of Omega’s most popular collections, with models ranging from the refined Aqua Terra to the Diver 300M. What makes the Seamaster so appealing is its outstanding precision. The watches are equipped with Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements, offering ultimate precision and reliability. With additional features like GMT functions, chronographs and helium escape valves, the Omega Seamaster is a stylish option for anyone looking to invest in a luxury watch.
Our Suggestion: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, which has a steel construction, a black ceramic bezel, and a black ceramic dial with laser-engraved waves.
- PATEK PHILIPPE – Calatrava
Since its introduction in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has set the standard for a quintessential dress watch. The Calatrava collection is highly revered by collectors who prefer sleek lines and understated design aesthetics. Patek Philippe crafts the watches with great attention to detail, ensuring they look elegant and feel luxurious on the wrist. The Patek Philippe Calatrava watches visually appear minimalistic with a slim case profile. The dials sometimes feature a guilloche pattern for added texture. The watches are primarily designed for dress instead of sports and remain a versatile addition to any collection.
Our Suggestion: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919J in yellow gold with a white dial and gold bezel.
- CARTIER – Santos
The Cartier Santos embraces a timeless design and has evolved into an icon of luxury watchmaking. Released in 1904 for famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the watch helped to ease in-flight readings. Cartier combined a distinctive design, modern aesthetic, and technological excellence to create this masterpiece, which today stands as one of the best picks for a first-time luxury watch buyer. It is perfect for formal occasions as well as everyday wear.
Pre-owned Cartier watches offer a perfect entry point into the world of luxury timepieces, combining timeless elegance with exceptional craftsmanship at a more accessible price. Known for their iconic designs—such as the Tank, Santos, and Ballon Bleu—Cartier watches hold their value well and often appreciate over time. When buying pre-owned, ensure authenticity by purchasing from reputable dealers who provide certification and service history. With careful selection, a pre-owned Cartier can be both a stylish statement and a smart investment for first-time luxury watch buyers.
Our Suggestion: Cartier Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0022 has a stainless steel case, silver Roman dial, and navy blue alligator strap.
- AUDEMARS PIGUT – Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a game-changer in the realm of luxury watches. Introduced in 1972, it was the first stainless steel luxury watch that forever changed the industry’s approach to design and materials. The Royal Oak has a distinctive design with an octagonal bezel, a Tapisserie dial, and an integrated bracelet, making it one of the most easily recognisable watches out there. Look no further than the AP Royal Oak for those who want their first luxury watch to be a statement. It is not just a mere purchase but an investment that will undoubtedly secure the best return.
Our Suggestion: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 37 Ref. 15550ST, which has a robust steel body, steel case, and a black dial.
Where to buy your first luxury watch?
As said above, buying brand new is not the only option. You can also find high-quality luxury watches on the secondary market. But we suggest visiting a store for a hands-on experience with your first watch. There is no way you’ll get an actual feel of the luxury timepiece on a screen.
You can buy pre-owned luxury watches from authorised dealers like The Luxury Hut in London to secure a great deal without compromising quality. With an extensive collection of luxury watches on sale, get some of the most iconic timepieces from renowned brands at significant discounts. Also, there is a chance that the watch you pick for yourself might not be readily available as brand-new at retail.
Learning how to buy your first luxury watch involves many know-now elements that require close attention. What to buy is completely your personal choice, but to help you make sense of this process, The Luxury Hut has tried to distil some knowledge here. If you want to buy a Rolex, Cartier, Omega, or any luxury watch, for that matter, this guide is handy!
As you navigate your ‘first’ luxury watch-buying journey, remember it’s not just about practicality but also about your emotions. So, take the time to explore styles, complications, and metals to choose a watch that truly resonates with you. Also, don’t forget to do your homework to avoid seriously costly mistakes.
Happy Shopping!
This is a collaborative post.
